Chapter 24

Mount Nitria and Kellia

We walked east out of Alexandria through the Sun Gate. Most of the traffic was going the other way; many people carried produce and goods for the agora. The air still cool; we kept a brisk pace.

By midmorning the road curved southeast, away from the Mediterranean; and for many miles both sides were covered by expansive vineyards, the source of Alexandria’s fine wines.

At midday the road ended and the never-to-end desert began. Now hot and tired, Yarrl and I sat down under our blanket-tent to rest, have a drink of water and protect our eyes from the unbearable sun. Thank goodness we were prepared.

“Every day there is danger at noontide.” Akakios reminded us. “The noonday demon can strike when the sun is at its highest. If you lose yourself in the heat and glare, disorientation and apathy could take your life. Evagrius said the temptations of Acedia are a sin, a real danger. So you must always be prepared and take care of yourselves. Some hermits have gone crazy from the extreme heat and reflected glare of the midday sun.”

“What? How could that be?” Yarrl was way out of his element.

“Don’t worry, you’ll soon get used to being careful; everyone does.”

I thought a walk in the desert might be rather bland or boring; but I was wrong. It was not in any way predictable. Sometimes thin layers of smooth sand on stone or clay caused us to slip. Then there were places where small rocks covered rough ground which made the feet and ankles hurt. A stretch of smooth, packed sand was always welcome. Once in a while we saw dunes or an escarpment in the distance; but so far the view was tiresome and monotonous.

The next day we stopped at a well where the tents of farm families fluttered around wide, golden fields like a flock of pelicans. All the grown-ups and children were busy with harvest. Akakios said the wheat would be exported to Rome and Constantinople. The people and activity gave our eyes a short break from so much plain desert sand.

We began our third day with chunks of dry bread and a handful of dates. Yarrl and I slept soundly beneath starlight in the absolute desert quiet; never missing the city noise. Each morning we were up with the sun, ready to go. We’d decided we must now be experienced desert-walkers; we didn’t get so tired and were able to adapt quicker to those bothersome surface changes.

“We’ll stay at Mount Nitria this evening.” Akakios knew that information would give us extra energy for today; and it did. It felt good to look forward to something different.

“Those black-robed monks live east of this area, so we’ll be on constant watch today.” That brought our attention back to the moment.

“And remember, if we meet some strangers, stay quiet while I speak to them in Coptic. Plus those bandits from the west who threaten Mount Nitria and travelers like us could be around from now on. They look for caravans along this route all the way south.” He waved one hand toward the western hills so we’d understand that a few casual glances weren’t good enough.

“We really must stay vigilant until we’re safe at Baramus.”

It was quiet except for the sounds of walking for a long while; each occupied with his own thoughts. Yarrl and I knew Mount Nitria was likely the first monastery built south of Alexandria. But we had no idea what to expect there. Yarrl had never before been this far outside the city.

“What’s a monastery like?” Yarrl was a little nervous about the unknown.

“It’s a huge place, bigger even than the Serapeum Temple-Library complex.” Akakios hoped Yarrl wouldn’t worry himself about everything. “It’s a good place, a place of safety in the desert. It’s rather like a village where the monks work, eat, sleep and worship together inside the walls. Each monastery is a little different in the way it’s set up and the way things are done. A lot depends on the Abott. He’s an older, experienced monk who runs the place, guides the community and supports the well-being and advancement of each individual.”

“Kind of like the way all of us work together at the Library.” I was glad Yarrl could relate.

“Also at Mount Nitria, there are also several hundred monks who choose to live alone as solitaries outside the walls. They only come to the monastery for worship and may still look to the abba for guidance. We might not see any of them.”

“That’s interesting, I didn’t know monks could live outside of monasteries. So what will happen when we get to Nitria?” Yarrl was focused on tonight.

“They’ll greet us and give us refreshment after our long walk; it’ll be a happy time.” Akakios grinned and gave him a little poke. “Don’t worry about it.”

We arrived at Nitria before dark, Yarrl and I couldn’t believe how big it was. I thought it was about two hundred years old. Built like a fortress; inside it was organized and efficient. They had everything needed for survival in the desert; wells, a grape press, grain grinder, bakery and more. We could also see rows of cells where the monks slept and made their daily devotions.

Several monks brought us water to drink, poured more over our feet and dried them with pieces of linen, then took us to the church where many were singing psalms and praising God. We were invited to join in and we tried, but Yarrl and I didn’t know the words. That made us uncomfortable as we had no knowledge or experience of those songs.

Yarrl told me later he’d felt the same way at a pagan ritual; so we asked Akakios why a religion required members to know certain songs and rituals and also expected others to join in.

“That’s the way most religions work. Although at Nitria and Kellia many of the solitary monks abandon songs and rituals when they decide to live alone. They choose to leave Church rules and practices along with worldly things and comforts behind. They strive to touch the face of God; which they believe can only happen by sheer will.” Akakios knew we were anxious to learn and understand. “That was also the way of many non-Christian mystics in the past.”

Yarrl hadn’t heard of these ideas before. I could tell he wanted to know more; but just then several monks walked over to visit and ask about Alexandria. We had a cup of wine with them.

Up before sunrise the next day, Yarrl took a walk through the vineyards and gardens, surprised to find a small grove of olive, citrus and fig trees. At the perimeter wall four monks stood on a high ledge to watch over the countryside. They turned to greet him by name. He felt like they knew him.

“Artemus, I really like this place, it’s so peaceful. I think I’m more relaxed today than I’ve been at home for a long time.” I noticed he was very much at ease with the monks at breakfast.

Then with fresh bread and full water bags, we continued southward. Akakios was glad for our early start.

“There will be more to see this afternoon when we pass through Kellia. It’s a special place, often called ‘the innermost desert.’ ” We could tell he liked that place.

“A long time ago, as more and more monks at Nitria decided to become solitaries it got crowded and some wanted more privacy. So the abba and Saint Anthony walked south for half a day and chose a new area for settlement that’s now known as Kellia. It’s grown to be a huge community, thousands of cells across many square miles. Both men and women are at Kellia. Each lives in a cell, one very small room. Some are on top of the ground, with a door and window; others are down in the ground accessed by steps. Some stand alone, a long way from others. Some are in small groups.

“Most important to the monks is complete privacy. Many don’t want to hear the prayers or conversations with God of others, nor see others.”

After a brief rest at the noontide, Yarrl and I began to notice more and more little buildings in front of us and on both sides as far as we could see across the featureless desert plain.

I guess Akakios could tell how curious we were; he kept talking.

“I’ve been here many times on an errand, to relay a message from a monastery or just to visit.” he smiled at us both. “I can tell you a little more if you’re interested.”

“Yes, yes.” We answered quickly.

“Each monk is on a singular, personal quest; reaching toward God and waiting for words from Him or visions of holy insight. Some of the more dedicated monks fight the need for sleep and so stay awake all night. They try to ignore their physical bodies and go beyond feeling tired or noticing how bad their legs ache.”

“How is that possible?” Yarrl was fascinated and a bit shocked.

“They have a deep, strong desire that’s concentrated on their spiritual quest. They often choose to stay awake for many days and nights and also practice extreme forms of fasting. All focus is on their one and only goal; so they pray nonstop.

“I don’t understand.”

“I know, Yarrl, but that works for many of them. Many eventually come face-to-face with God when they experience intense visions.”

“I never heard of this before.” Yarrl’s voice was low and I thought he’d likely continue to ponder all of this new information.

“Then once a week they come together at churches throughout the community to worship, share any news and check on the welfare of all.”

What a fascinating place this was, where so many people lived solitary lives of piety intermixed with fellowship and caring for each other.

We left at dusk to find our own place for this night.

 NEXT.....Chapter 25
Akakios Tells his Story